{"id":168995,"date":"2019-09-03T09:29:47","date_gmt":"2019-09-03T02:29:47","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/blj.co.id\/?p=168995"},"modified":"2021-04-01T12:43:48","modified_gmt":"2021-04-01T05:43:48","slug":"revival-classic-elegance-thoughts-open-weaves-first-jakarta-trunkshow","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.blj.co.id\/index.php\/2019\/09\/03\/revival-classic-elegance-thoughts-open-weaves-first-jakarta-trunkshow\/","title":{"rendered":"Revival Classic Elegance Thoughts Open Weaves First Jakarta Trunkshow"},"content":{"rendered":"

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(Business Lounge Journal – Etiquette Directory)<\/p>\n

Indonesians dislike wearing suits, Jakartans does not have a suit wearing culture. This is from the perspective of someone who has lived here his entire life. For most of us, it\u2019s an occasional fling, a garment that only a handful of people who has attachment for (which if you are, you\u2019re my man). We wear it at our weddings, graduations, prom dates NOT someone else\u2019s prom, occasionally when our lover (or mum) asks us to; but\u00a0 then we got confused and pair it with jeans and whatever sneakers we have \u2013 thinking that it makes us look \u2018smart casual\u2019, while in fact we ended up looking terrible. Suit and jacket (or blazer) has such a heavy stigma attached to it, many of us are reluctant to wear it often. And the weather doesn\u2019t really help either. We spent so little time with suit, many Jakartans doesn\u2019t understand how to wear it right, and when the time comes that we actually have to wear it, we end up looking shabby! I wouldn\u2019t blame the culture at all, as suits have actually been an integral part of our history! The students of STOVIA were wearing it, Bung Hatta was wearing it and almost all of our founding fathers were wearing it. The culture has simply vanished into thin air in this days and age.<\/p>\n

The first time I talked to Raditya Prabawa<\/strong> of Open Weaves, it felt so refreshing. Rare \u2018twas to hear a young Indonesian man who would\u2019ve wished to be a provider of bespoke tailoring – unless you\u2019re inheriting it. Pumped with high Melbournian spirit, he brought an \u2018alienated\u2019 version of the craft of soft-tailoring with a twist to Indonesia – and that twist is what makes it appropriate to the South East Asia\u2019s climate. And also\u2026I want to talk about his jolly partner, Jian Liang Yap<\/strong>, a Malaysian gentleman around the same age of Raditya whose joyfulness is contagious; and also hooked with the sartorial scene along with Raditya while both were studying finance in Australia. So you see\u2026an Indonesian and a Malaysian who studied finance together in Australia, and ended up mastering the trade of textiles and tailoring. Life can be unpredictably awesome.<\/p>\n

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My first impression of their inaugural Jakarta trunk show is that\u2026I\u2019m baffled. These two gentlemen really know their trades. Fabrics from well known mills; offering numerous colour, weave and finishing selections and materials and for the first time I saw their suit – a suit with spalla camicia<\/em>; an archetypal Neapolitan distinctive shoulder that looks too perfect to cry on. Really. Then, a silhouette that reminds me of my Ring Jacket\u2019s jacket; something you know would fit an Asian physique, and MOST importantly\u2026a lining that is proper for South East Asia\u2019s (in)famous tropical weather, so you would not be sweating profusely. The three of us sat and talked for an hour and half. Raditya and Jian both told me about how they got hooked and learned the tailoring\u2019s trade all in less than three years; yet, the products that I saw looks a lot more like that of a mature product. As Jian and Raditya guided me through the particular details, I can\u2019t help but show my obvious fascination. I\u2019m fascinated by how these 21 & 23 years old duo could glide me through the meticulous details of each and every one of their shirts, suits and jackets. With the House Jacket being unlined, minimally structured with no padding on the shoulders, full canvassed with pad stitching (they can even provide different canvassing materials, which they handpicked individually from the UK, think horsehair & camel hair!), and most importantly focused on providing lightweight, high twist (or what they\u2019d like to call it, Open Weave<\/em> fabrics, which again differs from what is already there in the market and what makes it appropriate and comfortable in the SEA climate – It feels like you\u2019re not even wearing a jacket! As for the shirts, clients would have the freedom of choosing a variation of styles and interlining, fine tuned to the styles that they know that will stay relevant in the decades and centuries to come, with their own twist.\u00a0 <\/strong>To be honest, I would expect these knowledge from an Italian, but definitely not from South East-Asians.\u00a0 But don\u2019t take my word for it! Take the words of Open Weaves\u2019 clientele that they have served during the past months since they launched; hailing from various countries, from Australia, Singapore, Thailand, Malaysia and Indonesia. (Or better yet, take a look at these pictures)<\/p>\n

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For me personally, Open Weaves is not just a mere newcomer in Indonesia. They\u2019re more of a revivalist in our long-dead suit culture. And not just a revivalist, they put an enhancement upon the trade. Their modern take of classical elegance is relevant and emits assured conviction. As a newcomer, they\u2019re not sloppy nor overconfident, but they are astute in delivering elegance in each of their crafts. A South-East Asian, young sartorial revivalist is something that I\u2019ve never heard of. But if I can describe what Open Weaves is, that definition surely fits. Their jacket looks modern, fun and does not diminish your age at all. And their suits looks properly elegant \u2013 it speaks of volume.<\/p>\n

Would this young age movement successfully revive the culture? Only time will tell, but for now, I\u2019d rather celebrate this newfound light, cross my fingers and hope for the best for both of them.<\/p>\n

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Michael Judah Sumbayak adalah pengajar di Vibiz LearningCenter (VbLC) untuk entrepreneurship dan branding. Seorang penggemar jas dan kopi hitam. Follow instagram nya di @michaeljudahsumbek<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

(Business Lounge Journal – Etiquette Directory) Indonesians dislike wearing suits, Jakartans does not have a suit wearing culture. This is from the perspective of someone who has lived here his entire life. For most of us, it\u2019s an occasional fling, a garment that only a handful of people who has attachment for (which if you are, you\u2019re my man). We wear it at our weddings, graduations, prom dates NOT someone else\u2019s prom, occasionally when our lover (or mum) asks us […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":5,"featured_media":169071,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_editorskit_title_hidden":false,"_editorskit_reading_time":0,"_editorskit_typography_data":[],"_editorskit_blocks_typography":"","_editorskit_is_block_options_detached":false,"_editorskit_block_options_position":"{}","om_disable_all_campaigns":false,"_exactmetrics_skip_tracking":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_active":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_note":"","_exactmetrics_sitenote_category":0,"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"_uf_show_specific_survey":0,"_uf_disable_surveys":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[7991],"tags":[7993],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.blj.co.id\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/168995"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.blj.co.id\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.blj.co.id\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.blj.co.id\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/5"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.blj.co.id\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=168995"}],"version-history":[{"count":16,"href":"https:\/\/www.blj.co.id\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/168995\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":179927,"href":"https:\/\/www.blj.co.id\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/168995\/revisions\/179927"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.blj.co.id\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/169071"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.blj.co.id\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=168995"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.blj.co.id\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=168995"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.blj.co.id\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=168995"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}